Day 20 - Friday, March 4 - Travel to Phuket
ADDENDUM TO THURSDAY, MARCH 3rd:
So I left the computer and headed to my room. Out back, in the garden, I stumbled across a group of young drinking travelers. I had all intentions of passing them by and going to sleep but one of the girls said hello as I was sneaking by so I went over to return the gesture. Well, that simple hello turned into a late night evening of drinking with 4 Canadian girls and 6 Irish guys who were all leaving on the trek today with Rooney. It was a very cool bunch and we had a lot of fun. It took about 45 minutes to finally master their Irish accents but once I did, I realized.....the Irish aren't always drunk, they just sound it. The group didn't break up until after 3AM and it was really time to go to bed. I would be able sleep on the flight - I did not envy the trekkers. They're going to have a blast and I presume the village will run out of moonshine by the time they leave.
The girls: 4 Canadians traveling for 6 months around Asia and Australia. They are a month into the trip and already are experiencing troubles traveling. Both with the elemets and each other.
The guys: 6 Irish guys either just out of University or within 2 years out are traveling around the world for 12 months. They head to the US next February as their last stop before heading back home. They're fly into LAX and have no idea what to do or where to go with their 10 days in the US. Someone has told them that LA isn't the best place to travel and get around if you don't have a car. They are thinking of going up to San Francisco - they heard it was a fun city. Trying to do the US in 10 days seems silly but one of the guys is solely determined to have a Twinkie and a hot dog from a street vendor. I hope he isn't disappointed in the twinkie and I have no idea where to get a hot dog from a street vendor in LA. I wonder if they'll e-mail when they are getting close. Will I even remember them a year from now?
I called it a night and went to bed.
Woke up at 8AM and showered and got ready. Headed down to breakfast at Libra and ran into Shawna, the canadian girl from yesterday morning. We had breakfast and chatted it up. The group of trekkers slowly came down and we all had breakfast together. I said my goodbyes to Libra for the final time, Boo Boo said she would reserve my room for next year, Rooney said he loved me, and the bitch at the front "desk" nodded and said something under her breath. I tried to stay away from her since day 1 as I wasn't a big fan. I'm not so sure she's a big fan of life! She may be the only unhappy Thai I've met to date. I said goodbye to the trekkers and got in my Tuk Tuk to the airport.
My Thai Airways flight left at 11:15A and I landed in Phuket about 2:15. Flying in over the beach was great. I saw green mountains, blue water, and I was excited to finally be in the South.
I originally took the advice of my friend, Dylan, who did a similar trip in November and bought a bus ticket to go to Phuket Town. He said to stay in town and not the beaches. When I wanted to go to the beaches, "go to the beaches", he said, but stay in town. After waiting for the bus and talking to a few different people, I changed my mind and decided to change my ticket and pay the difference to go to Patong Beach. Still waiting for the bus, I changed my mind yet again with the help of 2 french guys who told me Patong SUCKED and if I wanted something a little more quiet, go to Karon Beach or Kata Beach. I went inside, added yet a little more money and changed my ticket in for one to Karon beach. It seemed a little less touristy, and not as hectic as Patong from what I was reading and hearing.
On the bus, I met Stuart. What a character! He's 56, born and raised a Brooklyn Jew, drafted in 1968 and since the war, hates America. He moved to Scandinavia after the war, stayed away for 7 years, and finally went to Florida to see his mom (dad died when he was very young) and now occassionally visits his sister who lives on 4th and Pier just minutes from me in LA. His mom died in 86. He is a Karon Beach expert, loves Phuket, and has an opinion about everything. Keep in mind that this bus ride from the airport to Karon Beach was 2 hours long. He was here in Phuket last week, left for a few days to meet a friend in Pattaya (another Thai resort town a little further northeast) and is now back here for 3 days before heading back to the cold of Scandinavia.
The first few stops were various points on Patong Beach. I thanked many people that I wasn't staying at Patong. That place was horrible but I guess serves it's purpose to some coming to Phuket.
As my new friend Chris Jaymes said, "It's nice that it exists because it keeps the old German sex holiday men from invading the rest of the country."
The next stop was Karon and it seemed much quieter and less obnoxious. I, at this point, was happy to have chosen this beach. I was NOT happy to see that there are no accommodations in this area with huts / bungalows ON the beach. I want a beach hut with a grass roof and a hammock out front literally ON the sand. This place is more hotels across a busy road with shops, stores, and restaurants and 36,000 Indian store owners who want you to come inside their shop and let them make you a tailored suit. I was not happy with Phuket at this point, but always remember that when unhappy or not liking a certain place or thing, you can move on. I decided to drop my bags at Stuarts hotel, and look for my own place. We went across to a bar, had a few beers and some chicken satay and I learned that as messed up as you think you are, there is always someone worse!!! Back at the hotel, I paid for a room for the night and then look around to see if I liked anything better. The room here is the most I've paid so far - 595 baht for a room with A/C, mini-bar, satellite TV, and clean. Not spotless, just clean. I put my things in the room, realized the only station I get in English was Animal Planet and then knew that I bet this TV would never be turned on again.
I changed out of my travel clothes which meant I took off my sneakers and put on flips, and headed out. I wanted to be open minded to Phuket but, within minutes, I realized that I didn't like it here and was going to get out fast. I walked. I walked. I walked. I was sweating. I was sweating. I was melting. It was so hot and humid but it felt good. I walked more and ended up walking from Karon Beach to Kata Beach. I checked out a few guesthouses and found one I liked with a pool. It was the same price as the hotel, but I liked the atmosphere of the guesthouse better. You also get a different sort of traveler who stays at guesthouses. That's exactly it, you get travelers and not tourists at guesthouses. I walked more and it was getting dark. I must have walked 4 miles, maybe 5 and hadn't turned back to head home yet. I walked past many hotels, resorts, shops, restaurants, roadside carts, guesthouses, etc. I walked past Club Med and the Marriott something or other.
As far as Phuket goes, it's hard to say what it's like post Tsunami without a point of reference. I'm staying at a beach that was certainly hit, but 2+ months later it looks pretty good. To me, it looks like some Mexico beach towns I've been to that just look like they need a sweeping. There's a lot constructon, but if I didn't KNOW of a Tsunami, I would just think things were being built or remodeled. Also remember, this island is HUGE and all parts weren't hit so if anyone askes if its "SAFE" to come to Phuket, ABSOLUTELY. The biggest problem they say they Phuket will have is the spread of AIDS and other STS diseases when women are forced to turn to prostitution to make money that they are losing without tourism.
The more I walked, the more I realized that it was giving me a weird vibe as I thought about the recent events. This, coupled with not liking it in the first place was creeping me out. I came up with a plan. I am going to spend tomorrow here on Phuket. I'll sit on the beach a little bit, maybe go to see if there's anything to see in Phuket Town, and lay low. On Sunday, I'll book a day trip to Phi Phi (pronounced Pee Pee, for those not in the know). Phi Phi, made up of Phi Phi Ley and Phi Phi Don are supposed to be magnificently beautiful and although hit hard, the natural beauty of the blue water and limestone formations jetting out from the ocean must be seen. On this day trip, you are taken around the Andaman Sea in a big speed boat and you stop at various points along the way for snorkeling, sight-seeing, photo taking, etc. They even provide lunch at one of the stops. After I do that, my time in Phuket is done. I am waking up EARLY Monday morning and heading to Koh Lanta. Another island in the Adaman Sea, this one apparently has what I'm looking for.
Headed back towards my hotel, "The Hotel Mermaid at Crystal Beach" and stopped at a street vendor for some dinner. Ordered pork (she made it with shrimp by mistake) with garlic and peppers over rice and it was great. I was happy to be eating cheap again after my last 2 Italian dinners.
Stopped in a bar playing Springsteen on the juke box and had a beer. Got back to the hotel at midnight and thought about my plans. Do I change hotels for 2 more nights or stay here? Do I need a pool if I can walk across the street and go in the ocean? All these thoughts will be pondered and discussed with myself in the morning. For now, I'm too tired to think.
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