Sunday, April 17, 2005

CREDITS

The Hammer Group in Association with Thai Hammer Productions
Presents a Marc A. Hammer blog
Marc A. Hammer
Marc Goes to Thailand (and Cambodia)
Based on a character created by Gayle Giddins Hammer Marcus
Costume not really designed at all by Marc A. Hammer
Edited by Marc A. Hammer
Production Designed by the countries of Thailand and Cambodia
Written, Produced, and Directed by Marc A. Hammer

Air travel provided by All Nippon, Thai, and Bangkok Airways
Drinking Water courtesy of the Thai Bottling Company
Footware courtesy of Birkenstock, New Balance, and Sanuk
Fun provided by the people, places, and things of Thailand and Cambodia

Acommodations provided by:
Trang Hotel - Bangkok
Shanti Lodge - Bangkok
Libra Guesthouse - Chiang Mai
Various Hill Tribes - Trek from Chiang Mai
Charlie's House - Pai
Blue Bungalows - Pai
The Little Mermaid Hotel - Phuket
Khlong Jack Bungalows - Ko Lanta
Lanta Miami - Ko Lanta
Tarutao National Park - Ko Tarutao
Andaman Resort - Ko Lipe
Ban Chaofa Hotel - Krabi Town
Diamond Cave Bungalows - Rei Ley Beach
Royal Orchid - Ko Pha Ngan
Pingjum Bungalows - Ko Pha Ngan
Palita Lodge - Ko Pha Ngan
Morokot Hotel - Phnom Penh
Mikey's- Phnom Penh
Be Quest Angkor Hotel - Siem Reap
Shanti Lodge - Bangkok

Copyright 2005

Day 64 into Day 65 - THE FLIGHT HOME

Sunday, April 17th
All Nipon Air flight # 916
Depart Bangkok International 11:50PM
Arrive Tokyo Narita 7:55AM - Monday, April 18th
Boeing 767-300
Duration 6 hours, 5 minutes
Monday, April 18th
All Nippon Air flight # 6
Depart Tokyo Narita 5:10PM
Arrive Los Angeles International (LAX) 11:10AM
Boeing 777-200
Duration 10 hours
*** TODAY I WAS ABLE TO CROSS SOMETHING OFF MY LIST OF "THINGS TO DO BEFORE I DIE"
I was able to leave the airport during my layover and I took a train into Narita and had SUSHI - I've always wanted to eat Sushi in Japan - it was great! I'm now back at the airport waiting for my flight from Narita to Los Angeles.

Day 64 - Sunday, April 17 - Bangkok

I took a ride with the annoying American girl from last night to some huge electronics mall as she was looking for a new CD "walkman". We took a tuk tuk and were on our way by 11AM. It was a big 5-story mall with nothing but electronics and music / DVD's. There were computers galore, digital cameras by the thousands, and a few stalls of junk on the bottom level.

We were out of there within 2 hours and I only bought a few things - one of them NOT being a new computer although if I knew that place existed, I would have gone in February and bought a 12-inch Powerbook as there were 2 or 3 stores that carried MAC products. I did manage to find a LARGE suitcase on the bottom floor in the miscellaneous section.

We got a tuk tuk back to Shanti and on the way I realized that somehow the mercury in the last few hours had climbed up to the unbearable to be outside level. I packed my new suitcase and could barely lift it. I can't wait to see what happens when I go through customs at LAX as I hear a few weeks ago they put a ban on WOOD PRODUCTS coming in from Asia as there were some deadly beetles that were being brought into the country unknowingly in various wooden objects.

I then took a walk through the market to the other side of the canal to the flower market as I wanted to buy a few things for the owner and the girls at Shanti for being so great. I found 3 great plants and brought them back and gave them as a token of my appreciation.

By this time, it was so hot and humid that I had to get inside. It was over 100 degrees with ridiculous humidity and it was no time or place for the human species to be outdoors. I hung out at Shanti, shot the shit with Pan and some of the girls and made final preparations for my departure. I went to the market to get some local fruit (i.e. mangosteens and rambutans - see below link) and finally tried Durian. It's not horrible but something I don't want to acquire a taste for. I said I would try it before I left Thailand and I did.

The rest of my few hours in Thailand were spent in the common area (restaurant / bar area) of Shanti just talking to fellow travelers some of whom were also heading home and some that had just started their Thailand adventure as Bangkok seems to be the starting point for most seeing Thailand even if they are mid-trip and coming from neighboring countries.

I said my final goodbye's to Shanti, all the workers and extended family including Rochelle in the travel / internet place and got in the taxi to the airport at 9:00PM.

I'm still not experiencing any of the "sweet" of the "bitter-sweet" feelings that some people talk about prior to returning home from traveling. I've said it numerous times but this really has been the trip of a lifetime and wont forget it as long as I'm capable of remembering.

http://www.samui.org/fruits/

Day 63 - Saturday, April 16 - Bangkok

At 9AM, I met Omar and Steph for breakfast. After a good nourishing meal and a few miscellaneous delays, we got a taxi to the sky train and got to CHATUCHEK, the weekend market.

I had heard that there are over 15,000 stalls selling everything from A-Z but you really have no idea. I was also told that it is hot, sweaty, crowded, cramped, and the smells from the food sections get trapped in the tiny little aisles - YOU HAVE NO IDEA!

There was one saving grace - it was only 95 degrees today with 92% humidity so it was tolerable!

The market is probably the best of the huge markets I've been to and although it can be hot and sweaty in sections, there are a few big outdoor aisles that you can escape to for a breather. There is everything from local Thai souvenirs, food stalls, clothing, housewares, a plant section, a pet section, and everything else you can possibly imagine. It's MASSIVE!

We split up as there was no way we would be able to keep up with each other and coincidentally met back up at about 4PM when I was walking toward an exit. We had a light lunch at the market and then took a cab back to Shanti.

We hung out in the restaurant area until 7:00PM at which time we all took a tuk tuk to Khao San Road. They were heading to catch their bus to Ko Tao and I went along for the ride as there are a few things I needed to pick up - one being a nice BIG new suitcase to transport all the crap I've managed to accumulate along the way. I didn't buy the suitcase but I did manage to buy a few more things to put IN the suitcase once I get it. Tomorrow morning I will assess what space I need and come back to get one that will fit everything.

I decided to walk back to Shanti as it will probably be one of my last evening walks amongst the heat filled streets of Bangkok.

Back at Shanti, I had a drink with the Spaniards I met yesterday and downloaded some info as they are about to embark on a similar journey and wanted some suggestions. A few beers later, I learned their names are Nico, Pablo, and Pau and they're in Thailand because they were working in Australia without the proper work visas and were kicked out of the country.

Two American girls joined us for a little bit and I was glad when they decided to go to Khao San Road to check out the "scene" there as one of them was quite annoying and almost forced me into my room early as she was giving Americans a bad name.

We called it a night at midnight and I went to sleep for my very last time in Thailand.

Saturday, April 16, 2005

Day 62 - Friday, April 15 - Siem Reap to Bangkok

Kah picked me up at 9AM and took me to the airport. I boarded my litte prop plane back to Bangkok and got a taxi when I landed back to Shanti.

Something I haven't talked about yet is SONGKRAN. Songkran is THE THAI NEW YEAR and it's going on right now. Depending on where you are in Thailand will determine how many days it's celebrated. In Chiang Mai, they celebrate for a week. Here in Bangkok, they celebrate for 3 days.

Songkran is a Thai word which means "move" or "change place" as it is the day when the sun changes its position in the zodiac. It is also known as the "Water Festival" as people believe that water will wash away bad luck.

The Songkran tradition is recognized as a valuable custom for the Thai community, society and religions. The value for family is to provide the opportunity for family members to gather in order to express their respects to the elders by pouring scented water onto the hands of their parents and grandparents and to present them gifts including making merits to dedicate the result to their ancestors. The elders in return wish the youngsters good luck and prosperity.


Now, as you can probably tell, that is the literal meaning of what the holiday means. HOWEVER, it's not really about POURING WATER ON THE HANDS OF YOUR ELDERS at all as it's really a GIANT WATER FIGHT ALL OVER THE STREETS of every city and town in Thailand.

Everyone is fair game including policemen. Basically, if you are out on the streets, you better make sure you don't have anything on you that can be ruined as you will be soaked head to toe in water within 3 seconds! All businesses and government offices are closed and people drive around in trucks with giant water guns and buckets of water throwing it all over the place. Usually, the back of pick-up trucks are loaded with people and giant outdoor garbage pails filled with water and the people in the back of the trucks take their indivivdual pails of water and throw it everywhere and on anyone driving by or standing in the street. Then on the strret corners, you have kids standing with their guns or pails of water waiting for the cars to drive by so they can do the same. You have never seen anything like this before. I've attached a link below that has some pictures from last year on Khao San Road in Bangkok.

http://www.2bangkok.com/2bangkok/songkran/index2004.shtml

I got back to Shanti and it was mayhem. I managed to get inside without getting wet as I was ready to celebrate but wanted to put my packs down and change so I was in proper attire.

Well, I went out on the street and sure enough withing seconds I had kids squirting me with their guns and in only a matter of minutes, I had a pail of water thrown over my head and from that point on, it was war! The girls from Shanti were out on the streets enjoying themselves and enjoying getting all the farangs soaked. NOBODY IS SPARED! There were 80 year old women throwing water and getting in on the action! There is no safe place in the entire city (COUNTRY) unless you are inside closed doors and Shanti doesn't have any doors. It opens right up to the street and there was water all over the place in the restaurant area.

A few hours later, I came inside, dried off, and starting chatting with a few various groups of people who had all had enough as they have been here for the whole time and wanted life to return to normal as they had shopping to do before boarding their flights back to their home countries. It's difficult to shop if you aren't buying waterproof merchandise.

I had dinner with Mike Levy, a NY Jew who now lives in Clairmont, California, and his 2 friends Ellis and Rick. Ellis is in a band and is playing at the Hard Rock in LA on April 28th.....anyone interested? Albert?

I then went over and talked with Omar and Steph from Australia and we made plans to go to the Weekend Market in the AM. I hung out in Shanti's internet shop for a while as it seemed that a party had begun to form there.

It wasn't until just after 1AM that I retired to room #4, the same room I had the first time I was here back in February.

Friday, April 15, 2005

PHOTOS - THE LAST OF THE ISLAND LIFE AND CAMBODIA

I have just published 2 photo albums

The Last of Island Living

and

Cambodia

Look at them both as there are some good shots in both even if you are tired of seeing beaches!

There are some duplicates in the Cambodia album but I'm too tired to delete them and I'm too tired to caption some of them because it means looking up to see exactly where they were taken.

As always, this is just a sampling as I have 6 rolls of 35mm that should have some pretty awesome shots as well.

http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=333151113583484197/l=46154804/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Day 61 - Thursday, April 14 - Siem Reap / Angkor Wat

My driver, KAH, picked me up at 8AM and he took me to see:

Neak Pean
East Mebon
Pre Rup
Banteay Kdei

I was back at my hotel by 2PM and tried to absorb everything I had just seen in the past 3 days. I have never in my life seen such sights and never again will I.......unless, of course, if I make it to Machu Picchu in the course of my lifetime.

I walked around town, had lunch, and hung out at the guesthouse next door from my hotel which seems to have more "travelers" than where I'm staying.

Met a few people, had a drink, and then walked around the city some more and did a little souvenir shopping.

Grabbed a quick dinner at a local Khmer restaurant and was back at the hotel just chilling out for the rest of the night.

I had arranged for Kah to pick me up at 9AM to take me to the airport. I gathered all my goodies, crammed them all in my pack and went to bed.

LOOK FOR PHOTOS COMING YOUR WAY VERY SOON!!!!!!

Day 60 - Wednesday, April 13 - Siem Reap / Angkor Wat

I was picked up at 5:20AM and headed out to the temples. Our first stop was Angkor Wat to see sunrise.

While there, I met Lisa and John, a couple from England; Lisa, 32, a native of Iowa and living in England for the past 16 years who is dating John, 52, an English bloak who is twice divorced with 5 kids. We hit it off and spent the rest of the day together. Today's blog is going to be very short as what I said in yesterday's posting holds true for today.

There are no words to describe the temples. Whatever I would say would, in no way, shape or form, do them any justice.

Therefore, I am going to list the places I saw today, and you can do a google search if you are interested in seeing photos or reading about any of them. I saw the following sights from 5:30AM - 2PM:

Angkor Wat*
The South Gate of Angkor Thom*
The Bayon*
Terrace of Elephants
Ta Prohm*
Ta Keo
Preah Khan*
Ta Keo
The Baphuon
Terrace of the Leper King

* these are the ones you should look up if you are looking any of them up at all.

At this point, it was BEASTLY HOT, HUMID, and we were all exhausted. We went back to their hotel, had a drink, lunch, chatted and we decided not to go back to the temples for sunset. They are leaving tomorrow for Phnom Penh and I told my driver to pick me up at 8:00AM as I don't need to see another sunrise and 8-12noon or 1:00PM will be enough for me. We hung out for a few hours, had a few Angkor Beers, and at sunset, we said our goodbyes and I headed back to my hotel.

I walked around to some of the local bars at about 9PM and found a few really great hang-out spots.....one being a bar called "The Angkor What?". I walked around for a bit, popping in and out of some watering holes and was back at the hotel by 11PM.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Wednesday, April 13, 2005

Day 59 - Tuesday, April 12 - Travel to Siem Reap

I woke up to allow enough time to pack and be in the bar area of Mickey's at 6:30AM to catch my ride to the boat.

I also learned that I am a moron!

I was so excited and told so many people that I was taking a boat up the Mekong river to Siem Reap and that was a big lie. The Mekong doesn't GO to Siem Reap!

The river you travel is the Tonle Sap River which turns into the Tonle Sap Lake

Well, anyway, the boat left prompty at 7AM and we passed some great early morning Cambodian sights. Lots o' homes on the river, lots o' early morn' fisherman, lots o' early morn' bathers, and lots o' early morn' smells on the brownest and dirtiest river I've ever traveled on. The looked like a floating submarine and whilst some people opted for the inside seating, a few of us opted to sit on the "roof of the submarine" against the section where the luggage was stored. The morning sun was great and it felt nice to be back on a boat even if it wasn't Ko Lipe or Ko Lanta.

Midway through the journey, we had to switch boats. This is the norm but noone bothers to tell you that before you get on the boat. The river from this point gets real shallow and the new boat is smaller, lighter, and faster. We passed a few "floating villages" which were some of the coolest things I've seen to date. Once again, everyone going about their normal daily routines while the boat of farangs came speeding through leaving them nothing but scared fish and big wakes that shook their villages.

Near Siem Reap, we came to the largest of the floating villages which is actually in Lonely Planet as something to go to when you are templed out. We changed boats one last time. When we approached, there were kids sitting in what looked like large metal wash basins paddling over to us to beg for money. It was the cutest but sadest sight. Of course, they want you to take a photo so you feel obligated to give them some money. Of course, I did.

Once on the mainland, we arrived at another little fishing village and I was met by a driver that was arranged by Mickey's. I checked into Be Quest Angkor Hotel and walked around town a bit. Like Phnom Penh, Siem Reap has a lot of charm and a lot of bars and restaurants to cater to the people who flock here to see the Temples of Angkor. It really is the only reason people come to Siem Reap.

I was back at the hotel by 4:15PM. My driver came to pick me up and drove me to Angkor Wat for sunset. It's a great drive from the center of town. Just a kilometer or 2 from town, it turns into a beautiful tree lined road with thousands of tuk tuks, cars, and motorbikes transporting all the sightseers to and from the temples. Every second of the drive was a Kodak moment. It was like driving through a great country road with lush green vegetation all around. I bought a 3-day pass and entered the grounds of the temples.

From this point on, I am speechless. There really are no words to describe how incredible Angkor Wat is. I walked around for a few hours and, this coming from the guy who saw the Sistine Chapel in 46 seconds, I easily could have spent another few hours there.

For those who just know the name but aren't really sure exactly what, where, when, or why, feel free to click the link below. Another option is to do a google search for ANGKOR WAT as 411,000 sites will come up and you can click on any and get carried away by it's unbelievable beauty, grandeur, and immensity of it all. Angkor Wat is just one temple, the largest one of over 100, which make up "The Temples of Angkor". Today was sunset at Angkor Wat. Tomorrow, I'm being picked up at 5:15AM to see SUNRISE at Angkor Wat. From there, we will venture on to see some of the other temples of Angkor and will finish the day with SUNSET at Phnom Bakheng.

So, back in town, I walked around a bit, ran into some Australians I met on the boat, had a drink at "The Red Piano", a pretty great bar with great atmosphere until it was past 9PM and I excused myself so I could shower and get into bed to prepare for my early day.

By no means is this meant to insult anyone's intelligence:

www.sacredsites.com/asia/cambodia/angkor_wat.html

Tuesday, April 12, 2005

Day 58 - Monday, April 11 - Phnom Penh

My last day in Phnom Penh was spent hanging around and running to see the various miscellaneous sights I wanted to see before heading to Siem Reap. This is an amazing city and you should not listen to those who say there's nothing to see here. Book your tickets and come visit. The beautiful scenery as backdrop against the extreme poverty and filth, is one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. It rivals Havana.

I booked my boat ticket for tomorrow morning and went to the Royal Palace, dressed appropriately, at 8:00AM. It was already too hot to be wearing pants and a shirt! I walked over to the palace which is just a few minute walk from Mickey's, bought my admission ticket ($3 + $2 to bring a camera in) and started my self-guided tour as there was no way I could have hired a tour guide and been bored to tears for 2 hours as he/she told me of the significance of all the stupas, buddhas, buildings, pagodas, etc. Like with the Museaum, I was in and out in 30 minutes and went right back to the hotel to change. I hung around for a bit in sidewalk cafe of Mickey's and then went for another stroll around the city.

I stumbled back upon Wat Phnom which I now know is just a few minutes from the hotel if taking the direct route and paid $1 admission which allowed me to walk up the hill to the giant pagoda and pray to Buddah.

After I was finished with my business up top, I spent some time at the base of the hill. Although a bit of a circus at times with the beggers, women and children selling drinks, children selling birds in cages that you pay to set the birds free, and an elephant ride around the base of the hill, I had fun. As annoying as it can be, I'm actually finding it hard to be annoyed as they are just trying to make any sort of living they can. Also at the base of the hill amongst the numerous park benches and vendors were at leat 100 monkeys both in the trees and on the ground just hanging about waiting for someone to feed them some scraps of the food and fruit.

On my way back to Mickey's, I took a different route, this time walking through some streets off the beaten path and stumbled across yet another street market along a "park" where the homeless were using a spiget to bathe. There was an family of 5 gathered around a spiget in the center of a grasy field as the mother and father soaped up the kids. I walked over to a street vendor, bought something that looked like a small whole chicken hanging on a hook and brought it over to them. The appreciation in their eyes was priceless and now I don't have to go to temple to atone for my sins next Yom Kippur.

Stopped at Lyon d'Or, a little french cafe on the river, for a quick lunch and ran into a german girl who I've now seen 3 times since I've been here. I now know her name is Eva. We had lunch together and spent a few hours talking and relaxing out of the dangers of the extreme midday heat.

After lunch we walked around a bit, and ended up at Mickey's where I went upstairs for a bit and she sat in the sidewalk restaurant catching up on her journal.

I walked around some more, occasionally picking up a little trinket or 2 from various shops and made my way back to the hotel where I plopped down and napped for a little while. Walking around in this heat all day really gets to you.

I woke up, put on my walking shoes (birks) and ventured out yet again for a light early dinner with Eva. We found what looked like a good Khmer restaurant and had some great chicken curry that was served inside a carved out coconut that was shaved of the outer layer as if it were a jack-o-lantern. I took a picture as it was just as impressive as my meal on Lipe that came in the carved out pineapple and I know Les and Marlow are going to want to see a photo.

From there, we hung out on the riverbank enjoying some people watching and having an occasional chat with english speaking locals. For the most part, I'm finding the Cambodians very friendly and easy to talk to.

We then went to FCC for a few drinks and we headed back to Mickey's to hear some live music. The owner of Mickey's is an American named Doug and he plays great music and books great bands from what I can tell to perform on the little stage in the bar area. By 1AM, it was time for bed as my ride was at 6:30AM to take me to the pier.

Monday, April 11, 2005

Day 57 - Sunday, April 10 - Phnom Penh

Had a great night sleep in my room with air con at Morokot and woke up in time for my 8:30AM pick up. I had arranged with Sophan to bring me to Micky's for $3. Little did I know, but any of the tuk tuk's out front of Morokot would have taken me for $2. Once again, oh well.

I got to Micky's, my room was waiting for me, and its clearly a lot nicer than Morokot. I watched some TV in the room until it was time to venture out in the Cambodian streets to see what great smells and sights awaited me today. I got all caught up with the royal wedding, papal funeral and even learned that MG/ROVER filed Chapter 11 after over 100 years in business. This was the 2nd or 3rd time in 2 months I've seen TV.

Walked and walked and walked, popping in and out of shops, temples, and "mini-marts" for the occasional rehydration exercise as it was oppressively hot, humid, and very little breeze to evaporate the sweat that was pouring off of my body. Oh, how I missed the days of traveling in the city. I've gotten so used to being a vegetable on a hammock with an ocean to jump in and out of that I almost forgot how invigorating it was to lose 3 liters of water an hour in this intense heat. By the way, the "3 liters" is an estimate as I read that the average person can lose 1 liter an hour when in locations where the heat is at least 15-20 degrees warmer than what they are used to and I am clearly not "average".

I went to some Western joint for lunch and had a vegetarian pizza and it was pretty tasty. The riverfront is "westernized" a bit but as soon as you venture to other parts of Phnom Penh, there is Cambodia staring you in the face again. After lunch, I walked to the National Museum and was in and out in less than 30 minutes (and that was including time I spent taking some pictures of the gardens). The museum is housed in a pretty spectacular building but the exhibits are not as great. That is, of course, if your thing is seeing the eight-armed statue of Vishnu from the 6th or 7th century AD. If pottery and bronzes dating from the pre-Angkorian periods of Funan and Chenla (4th to 9th centuries) are your thing, then I advise you to book your tickets to Phnom Penh now!

From there, I walked a little further to the Royal Palace to find out that it's closed from 12-2PM. I walked around some great boulevards of Phnom Penh and saw some great slices of life of locals going about their Sunday. It was just as if they were sitting in their homes eating bagels and lox and reading "The New York Times". I wandered more and went back to the Palace to find out I didn't pass the drss code. Apparently, farangs dripping sweat in tank tops and shorts were not acceptable to visit the Royal Palace. I decided to bail on the palace for today and go tomorrow morning at 7:30A or 8:00A with a pair of pants and a shirt before it get's too hot.

Soooooo, back on my feet to walk around some more. By the way, the annoying thing here are the numerous methods of transport and the locals who drive them. I think I mentioned this already, but the 4 common modes of transport are taxi, tuk tuk, motorbike and cyclo. It is IMPOSSIBLE to walk more than 2.4 feet without someone asking you if you need a mode of transport. If you say "NO", you can be 100% certain that there is another driver lurking in his shadow who will ask you the same question who may even be asking if you need the same mode of transport that you just turned down. I think I say "no, thank you" at least 35,654 times a day here.

From the palace, I took a tuk tuk to one of the "backpacker strips" called Boeng Kak along the eastern shore of Lake Boeng Kak to check out the way I'm SUPPOSED to be seeing Phnom Penh because a room on the river is not how I am thinking most "backpackers" see the city. Well, I was right. This place was the slums of slums and I finally got to see how the poor local Cambodians live as they too are living in huts along the mosquito infested lake, some of them with just a mere tarp hung across 4 poles as protection from the elements. Most of the guesthouses are built on wooden platforms over the lake, a seriously polluted body of water that no matter how many beers you have, should NOT be entered. The common areas of most of these places are pretty cool and social, but the whole area is pretty gross. I was beginning to feel slightly guilty that I wasn't staying there but got over it pretty quickly. HOWEVER, this is the area where I would be staying if I wanted to stay at my $3-$5 a night budget. From there, I walked further and came across the Raffles Le Royal Hotel which was just a 5-10 minute walk away from the drek I just came from. This hotel is absolutely amazing and being that I am a chameleon, I was able to go in, transform myself from backpacker mode to 5-star hotel mode, and fit right in. I had a glass of lime juice for $3.50 which came on a silver platter with a bowl of cashews dipped in sugar on the side. I was told that part of "The Killing Fields" was set at the hotel but shot in Hua Hin, Thailand.

Anyway, back on the feet again, I came across Wat Phnom which is set on top of a 27m-high tree covered knoll and the only "hill" in town. It is surrounded by a pretty park and was a good Kodak Moment with a giant pagoda sitting on the very top of the hill. For some reason, I wasn't allowed to climb the steps to the top of the hill - I think someone of importance was up there - who knows, it may have been Tin Tin as he seems to be the most important and famous person here in Cambodia.

I then hired a cyclo for an hour to drive me around parts of the city I haven't seen yet and although they travel very slowly, it was relaxing and a good time was had by all (well, me). A cyclo is a bicycle that's outfitted with a little one-man seat (sort of like a little cart) in front so the bicycle driver is in back of you and he peddles you around. After the hour, he dropped me back at the hotel, I had a refreshing drink at the bar, and contemplated sitting right at the bar all night and not moving.

That's exactly what I did. I made friends with some other travelers who follow the "mid-range places to stay" section of Lonely Planet. At one point, we went down the street to FCC (Foreign Correspondent's Club) for a drink as it's a "definitive drinking hole for tourists and expats alike" and then back to Mikey's.

Across from Mikey's, along the riverfront, the evening was underway as it seems that the locals love to just hang out, sing, dance, sell stuff, and loiter all night in the hot, humid, sweaty air. Mind you, some of these people don't have a home to go home to but I think the majority of them do.

Shortly after midnight, I made my way upstairs and went to bed. The palace was awaiting me with my acceptable attire.

Sunday, April 10, 2005

PHNOM PENH - AN EDUCATIONAL POST

PHNOM PENH IN BRIEF:
Picturesquely situated at the confluence of three rivers, the city of Phnom Penh radiates out from the small wooded hill from which it was named. The spiritual heart of the city is the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, and it's adjacent Buddhist monastery. Add to this a treasure trove of colonial-era French architecture and long, wide boulevards, and you have Phnom Penh. All but deserted in 1975, the city has since bounced back from its enforced slumber, gaining in charm and convenience with each passing year.

Following are Lonely Planets descriptions of some of the more powerful and disturbing events of my yesterday:

TUOL SLENG MUSEUM:
In 1975 Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot's security forces and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21 (S-21). It soon became the largest center of detention and torture in the country. Between 1975 and 1978 mor ethan 17,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the extermination camp at Choeung Ek, detainees who died during torture were buried in mass graves in the prison grounds.

S-21 has been turned into the TUOL SLENG MUSEUM which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. Like the Nazi's, the Khmer Rouge was meticulous in keeping records of it's barbarism. Each prisoner who passed through S-21 was photographed, sometimes before and after torture. The museum displays include room after room of photographs covering the walls from floor to ceiling; virtually all of the men, women, and children depicted were later killed.

As the Khmer Rouge "revolution" reached even greater heights of insanity, it began devouring it's own children. Generations of torturers and executioners who worked here were in turn killed by those who took their places.

When the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh in early 1979, it found only 7 prisoners alive at S-21. Fourteen others had been tortured to death just as Vietnamese forces were closing in on the city. Photographs of these gruesome deaths are on display in the rooms where their decomposing corpses were found. The graves of these 14 prisoners are in the center courtyard of S-21.

Altogether, a visit to S-21 is a profoundly depressing experience. The sheer ordinariness of the place makes it even more horrific: the surburban setting, the plain school buildings, the grassy playing area where children kicked around balls, rusted beds, instruments of torture and wall after wall of harrowing black-and-white portraits conjure up images of humanity at its worst. It demonstrates the darkest side of humanity that lurks within us all. Tuol Sleng is not for the squeamish.


THE KILLING FIELDS OF CHOEUNG EK:
Between 1975 and 1978 about 17,000 men, women, children, and infants (including 9 Westerners) who had been detained and tortured at S-21 were transported to the extermination camp of CHOEUNG EK. They were often bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting precious bullets.

The remains of 8985 people, many od whom were bound and blindfolded, were exhumed in 1980 from mass graves in this one-time longan orchard; 43 of the 129 communal graves here have been left untouched. Fragments of human bone and bits of cloth are scattered around the disinterred pits. More than 8,000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the clear glass panels of the Memorial Stupa (a dome-shaped monument, used to house Buddhist relics or to commemorate significant facts of Buddhism) , which was erected in 1988.

Day 56 - Saturday, April 9 - Bangkok - Phnom Penh

As I always like to say, 4:30AM came rather quickly. I got my stuff together, (my pack is pretty empty and light now) and waited downstairs for the taxi. Like in the past, they came on time and I was on the way to the airport by 5:02AM.

I checked in, went through security and as the x-ray man said to his helper, "this bag needs check", I hit myself on the head and realized I didn't take my Swiss Army knife out of my day pack which I carry on and put it in my checked bag. Needless to say, this led to confiscation of my knife and a little extra security check of my bags and my person. I was slightly pissed at myself as this was the knife I bought at the border in Malaysia and have been using it regularly for a myriad of tasks. Oh well.

I boarded Bangkok Airways Flight # 920 to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Please, do not let Bangkok Airways cater your next affair.

Once on the ground, after only one hour of fly time, I got my ön-the-spot-Tourist-Visa and was out of the airport in no time. I found a taxi and told Sophan, the driver, to take me to "The Riverview Hotel" which I saw in Lonely Planet. For some reason, I let him talk me out of it and went to the hotel that he recommended, Morakat Hotel. I also hired him for the day to drive me around and take me to some of the sights. We went to the hotel, it seemed ok, in a slightly seedy area, and just a few blocks from the Central Market. I got a room with air con, threw my bags down and went with Sophan to start my day.

Our first stop was TUOL SLENG MUSEUM. While there, I learned a lot about what went on under the Khmer Rouge and was horrified beyond belief. I can only compare my feelings while walking around the museum as similar to the ones I had when I visited Anne Franks House or Dachau. Obviously, those 2 having a little more meaning to me but this was equally as disturbing. Read the blog post entitled "PHNOM PENH - an educational post" for a little more information.

At the museum, I met Patsy, an Englishwoman who now lives and teaches in Sri Lanka. We walked around the museum together with Sophan giving us as much detail as he knew. His English is pretty good. The people who do speak English here seem to speak better than the Thai who do. Of course, that just may be a generalization with no real facts to back it up.

I invited her to hop in the car with us to our next stop, "The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek", which we know just as "The Killing Fields". After all, I had paid for the car for the day and she was at the mercy of local taxĂ­'s, motos, and cyclo's.

We drove about 25 minutes and finally arrived in the rural surroundings of "The Killing Fields". I hired a tour guide as there is little description of what you are looking at and without his guidance, I was not aware that wherever I walked, I was walking on massive graves. Once again, disturbing and emotionally draining. More on this on the educational post of the day.

After this moving experience, he took us to the Russian Market where I neither met any Russians or saw any Russian products but nonetheless, it was a pretty big, crowded, hot, "Ă¯ndoor" market with lots of stuff lined up on small, dark, daunting rows and rows of vendors. As you move from row to row, it gets darker, the rows narrower, and the products change. All the apparel is grouped in one section of multipe rows, all the wood carvings in another row(s) textiles in another, silver in another, musical instruments in another, car parts in another, tools in another, stationery goods in another, etc. etc. etc. Apparently, it's called the Russian Market because it's where the Russians shopped during the 1980's. There are few Russians left in Phnom Penh at this point in time.

Patsy and I had lunch at "Jars of Clay", a small cafe that serves up coffees, and "light and tasy bites like wraps and salads". It was great to eat some western food for a change.

On the way back to the center of town, we had to drop Patsy off at California Hotel, one of the hotels / guesthouses I was contemplating from Lonely Planet. Once we got there, I realized I made a huge mistake and needed to move to the river in the morning. I said goodbye to Patsy and made a plan to meet back at her hotel for dinner at 7:30P. This gave me an hour and a half to relax, unwind, and decompress from the days events - of which I did none.

Back at Morakat, I dropped off some bags of purchases from the day, and walked over to the Central Market or otherwiswe known as the dark-yellow Art Deco Psar Thmei. "The central domed hall resembles a Babylonian temple and some claim it ranks as one of the largest domes in the world. It has 4 wings filled with stalls selling gold and silver jewelery, antique coins, fake name-brand watches, clothing and lots of other crap. All around the main building are stalls selling scarves, stationery, household items, sarongs, flowers, second-hand clothes (usually from the US or Europe), and of course, a "fresh food" section. I walked around for as long as I could take it and then walked back to Morakat and showered for dinner.

I met Patsy at her hotel and had a drink. We walked around to some other hotels that line the river and I found a great place called "Mikey's". It was way more than I wanted to spend, but talked them down to $25 and paid a night in advance. I was excited to get out of Morakat and get to the river in the AM. My room has a great balcony overlooking the river and it seems like a great scene in the open lobby bar with tables lining the bar and out on the sidewalk.

We had dinner at a Khmer restaurant, which was very similar to Thai Food, chatted the night away and called it a night.

Saturday, April 09, 2005

Day 55 - Friday, April 8 - Bangkok

I woke up and realized the stick and sweat was ok on the islands. Here, in hot Bangkok, with no breeze and no ocean to look and jump into to cool down, air con is my preference.

I waited for Rochelle to get in but she never did so I showered and took a tuk tuk to Khao San Road to check with a travel agent. Much to my chagrin, the flights to Cambodia are expensive. After searching around, as a budget traveller, I decided to do the responsible thing, TAKE THE BUS.

The one way bus ticket from Bangkok to the border of Proipet and then from Proipet to Siem Reap is 300 baht. I'm told the ride from the border to Siem Reap is horrible as there are no roads and they just drive wherever they want over mountains and rocky roads. I met a girl who told me to take a pillow or a wad of clothing because her ass hurt for 3 days when she got there. I'm up for the adventure and I leave tomorrow morning at 7:30AM for a PROMPT arrival in Siem Reap at 8:00PM!

I ran into Chrischan and his friends and had lunch with them at a food stall near Khao San Road. I then needed to take a water taxi down to the last stop, the same stop as The Peninsula and The Oriental Hotels to go to STA Travel so they could issue my new ticket home for April 17th. Good thing I did this today as STA, like most things in Thailand are CLOSED all of next week for Thai New Year.

On the water taxi, I ran into Nico and Janis on their way to Chinatown. It still amazes me that I run into the same people over and over again whether in the same city or different parts of the country.

From STA, I made my way back to Shanti via water taxi so I could book my bus for the morning with Rochelle. I walked through my market and it was good to see things haven't changed much since my last stay here. My market is just how I left it.

Back at Shanti, Rochelle and I played with all the possibilities and I decided to scratch the "budget traveller" plan. I booked a flight from Bangkok to Phnom Penh for tomorrow morning (7:25A) and a return flight from Siem Reap to Bangkok for next Friday as I'm going to take a boat up the Mekong River to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

I had dinner with Nico, Janis, and Ed, a Thai guy they met and have been traveling with for part of their stay. Dinner was awesome curry at Shanti and then we went to Khao San Road. They wanted to do some last minute shopping before their flight home and I needed to get some passport photos for my Camboida visa, film, and another bag to fill up and leave at Shanti while I'm gone as I need very little for Cambodia.

I said goodbye to Nico and Janis and was back at Shanti by 11:30P. I packed my things, put another bag in storage and went to bed.

My alarn was set for 4:40AM so I could be ready for my taxi which was coming at 5:00AM.

Friday, April 08, 2005

Day 54 - Thursday, April 7 - the journey to Cambodia begins

I woke with a brainstorm.

Screw the flight.

I had a new plan.

I checked out of Palita and caught a noon boat from Thong Sala Pier to Surat Thani (the mainland) with a quick stop at Samui. The more I read about it and the more I hear people talk about Samui, I think I made an excellent decision to scrath it from my itinerary. I arrived in Surat Thani at 4:15PM and waited at the pier until 6:00PM at which time the bus to Bangkok was scheduled to leave. Of course it left at 6:00PM, THAI TIME, a little late. I tried to book a train, but it was sold out. I think with the Thai New Year rapidly approaching, everyone is scrambling to get to their party scene in time. My time on the boat was spent with a few Germans (Chrischan, Serena and Kayla), most of the time sitting on the bow of the boat soaking in the last of the Gulf of Thailand rays. Once at the Pier, Chrischan left us as he was on a different bus to Bangkok and we met Nico and Janis, some more Germans. The 5 of us got prime real estate on the bus and chatted most of the way until it was time to "sleep".

Listen to this deal: If I did the flight thing, I would have to spend 700 baht for my room tonight at Palita, 100 baht for the boat to Samui in the morning, 50 baht for a taxi to the airport, and 3500 baht for the flight to Bangkok.

This way, the whole trip which included the boat to Surat Thani, the overnight bus remember, this also saves a bungalow / hotel expense for the night as well as transports you) was 500 baht. I'm getting very good at being a "budget traveler".

The bus arrived in Bangkok at 4:15AM and I quickly rounded up anyone who needed a place to stay and we (4 of us - me, 2 of the German guys as the girls already had a place booked, and one Italian guy living in Germany) took a cab (not a tuk tuk) to Shanti. I wasn't so sure I needed my "fancy" room with air con being that I was trying to book a bus or plane to Cambodia in a few hours so I took one of the 3 beds in Nico and Janis's (the 2 Germans) room with fan which was 300 baht for the night (100 baht a person).

It was very sad to be off the islands but something very comforting to be back at Shanti.

I'm still deciding on where to stay when I come back to Bangkok next week. I think I may scrath the idea of staying in a nice hotel and just come back here. After all, it's where I started the journey and think it's where I need to end. The only thing a nice hotel will provide is probably a pool and if I get that hot, I can jump into the dirty river with the kids who use it to bathe.

I twisted and turned in my stickiness and eventually fell asleep knowing that my internal alarm clock will wake me up way before any travel "agency" would open. I'm hoping Rochelle, the young girl who runs Shanti's travel center, decides to open at a decent hour as sometimes she decides to sleep in and open at her leisure.

Day 53 - Wednesday, April 6 - Ko Pha Ngan

I had a pretty good night sleep and woke at 8AM - after all, I'm bound to go down for a nap a few times today so 5 hours was plenty to get me started. I don't remember what anyone even looked like from last night and no strangers came up to me telling me it was a SMINT night so I think I'm ok.

I took a walk on the beach - figured 2 days of exercise in a row wouldn't kill me but this time, unlike yesterday, I walked on the beach (a flat surface) and didn't intentionally try to inflict pain on myself. I actually felt pretty good under the circumstances. I'm also pretty sure that my liver was still tryng to process some of the libations of just a few hours ago.

I checked my e-mail and Logan informed me he was not meeting me on Ko Tao, rather heading north to Kanchanaburi which is where I had my romp with the tigers and saw the Bridge over River Kwai.

Therefore, I decided to stay on Ko Pha Ngan for yet another day, right here at Palita Lodge.

The morning was spent doing a lot of nothing - just loads of R&R - occasionally waking up to find I had taken an unintentional nap and then, at one point, something jolted my brain into thinking I should do something spontaneous and nothing I've planned to date. I went to one of the many used bookstores of Had Rin and bought a Lonely Planet for Cambodia. Maybe I'll catch a plane to Bangkok tomorrow and then to Siem Reap, and see Angkor Wat before leaving Southeast Asia. I sat in the hammock and read all about my new plan.

At 3PM, I took a songtheaw (remember, those are the pick-up trucks outfitted with the 2 benches in the back that act as a taxi) over the treacherous roads towards Thong Sala to Wat Pho. Also remember that Wat is "temple" in Thai but I wasn't going to see another Thai temple but rather to check out the Herbal Sauna they have on the grounds. This time, unlike Chiang Mai, it wasn't an individual room but one that maybe 7 or 8 people could fit in at one time as they pumped steam infused with a blend of white tumeric, kaffir lime, lemongrass, tamarind leaf, sugar cane tumeric, and salt to a temperature upwards of A LOT of degrees fahrenheit. After 10 minutes, I came out, doused myself with water from the giant urn that sits outside, cooled down a bit and did it all over again about 3 or 4 times. When I was all done, I smelled good enough to eat.

When almost all the fluids of my body had been sweated out, I then opted for an OIL massage (remember again, I hate Thai Massages). It was pretty good and at times had Thai elements to it, but I managed to survive and felt great afterward.

I found some guy in a pick-up truck heading in the direction of Had Rin and hopped in the back and successfully made it back to Palita without and bruises, broken bones, or whiplash. The road from Thong Sala to Had Rin is one of the worst on the island and certainly rivals the one from Thong Sala to Ao Nong Thai Pan Yai last week.

Back on my porch, I entertained the idea of Cambodia again but came to no decision. If I'm going to go ahead with this plan, I think I need to make a decision by tomorrow. I would take a boat over to Ko Samui on Friday morning and catch a plane to Bangkok immediately. I would spend a night in Bangkok and take a plane early Saturday AM to Cambodia and start my tour of Angkor. I can't imagine, even though it's not UNcommon for people to spend 5 or 6 days looking at temples, that I would need more than the rest of Saturday and 2 full days starting at sunrise on Sunday and going full force until sunset on Monday to see all I want to. After all, this is the same person who saw The Sistine Chapel in 36 seconds. At that point, I can bolt down to Phnom Penn for a few days and head back to Bangkok on Friday or Saturday morning to catch my plane to LA on Sunday at 11:55PM. Now that I've explained an itinerary that will change 36 times before I make any decisions, it's time to either act on it or come up with a new plan for the remaining 9 or 10 days before I need to be back in Bangkok.

I strolled around town for a bit, stopped for a little dinner at some chicken joint as I was Thai Fooded out and came back to Palita where I joined some other Palitians for the end of Ocean's 12. After the movie ended, we reconvened on the beach for a night swim and chat and I headed for bed near midnight.

Wednesday, April 06, 2005

Day 52 - Tuesday, April 5 - Ko Pha Ngan

I woke up very early as many people were just getting home from their night of debauchery, probably at "the Cactus Bar" just down the beach from Palita.

I re-evaluated my plans. I had a great day on Had Rin and not sure what I'm rushing out of here for. If I am meeting Logan on Ko Tao, it's not until tomorrow at the earliest. I decided to stay on Had Rid on Ko Pha Ngan for another day.

I also checked my journal and realized that almost all I've done lately is sit on my ass and eat (aside from our little rock climbing the other day) so I decided to get some exercise out of the way. Boy, was that a DUMB idea.

I left Palita at 8:30AM to hike over to Had Tien, a neighboring beach. The hike is 5km and it's not easy. There were times I wanted to just lay down and die and hope someone came my way to send my body home before some of the local wild life came and got the best of me. This hike was a KILLER, climbing a steep steep mountain range (i.e. the Rockies) to finally get to the next beach over which was an ugly mess. Along the way, I hiked through beautiful lush green jungle occassionally coming to areas that were dried, brown, and ugly, always following the "green dot trail" to safely get me to my destination. I was supposed to see all sorts of Ko Pha Ngan wildlife but all I saw were 36 different species of butterflies and a few monkeys, which don't excite me anymore.

By the time I got to Had Tien, I was sweat SOAKED! I quickly found a bunglaow operation and bought 2 bottles of water - one to drink and one to pour over my head. I found the beach and decided on a water taxi back to Had Rin as there was no way in gods green earth that I was heading back over that trail. It took me 100 GRUELING minutes to get there and it was plenty of exercise for one day.

While I was waiting for the water taxi to take me back to Had Rin, I met 2 girls and a guy from The Czech Republic and we had a nice time chatting for quite a while as the water taxi departs when the water taxi driver decides he's in the mood to.

Well, it was back over the same rough seas as yesterday, this time, not in a fishing boat, but a long-tail boat packed with 24 people and lots of luggage - something the US Coast Guard would NOT approve of! Midway through the trip it started to rain. I now wasn't only soaked with sweat covered up with Thai drinking water, but now I had Thai rain water on top of it all.

The water taxi dropped me off at Had Rin Nai, I walked very quickly over to Nok, jumped in the ocean, then showered, did a quick washing of my clothes and sat on the porch for a while observing the goings on. I can sit on my porch for 29 hours a day, as I forgot to mention the eye candy that is visible upon looking in every direction from my porch. I wont get into details as there are grown ups, children, and religious folk who are reading this blog and I don't feel it would be responsible reporting to all of a sudden turn this into a porn site.

After a few swims, a few sits on the porch, and my eyes had enough exercise, I walked around the streets a bit, got a pretty great foot massage and caught up on some e-mails and blogs. While I was internetting, the skies opened up and it rained like I haven't seen in years. I waited out the rain, headed back to Palita and had dinner there. Wherever you go on Had Rin, every bar, bunglaow restaurant, etc. is playing a movie. There is usually a chalboard out front giving a time table of what they are playing that day usually starting at Noon and going all the way til 7PM or 9PM. The establishments vary, with some having big screen TV's, to one place that has a big screen along with 10 smnaller ones positioned around the restaurant, and even one that has one TV that looks like it's no more than 13".

As I sat down for dinner, they were playing "Bridget Jones" - the second one. I only saw the last 40 minutes or so and it looked AWFUL! After dinner, I sat on the porch and fell asleep in the hammock.

At midnight, I woke up and heard some thumping bass from down the beach at "Cactus Bar" so I took a walk to see what was going on. I think everyone on the entire island was partying and dancing at the bar and on the beach so I found a vacant spot on a bamboo mat on the beach with a bunch of people and made some friends pretty quickly. I have no idea as to who they were and I don't remember their names as I got back to Palita after 3AM after many beers, a few Thai Whiskey drinks and who knows what else. I now understand why people were stumbling home as the sun was rising this morning being that the bar was still packed when I left at 3AM.

I went to bed hoping I had shut off my internal alarm clock that was set last night to see the sunrise.

Tuesday, April 05, 2005

Day 51 - Monday, April 4 - Ko Pha Ngan

Woke up and had a new plan for the day. I decided to proceed with my Ko Tao plans but not before checking out of Pingjum and spending the day and night down at Had Rin.

Had Rin is on the southeast point of the island and is divided into 2 sections, Had Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach) or the lively party beach, and Had Rin Nai (Sunset Beach) or the quieter ugly beach. The 2 beaches sandwich a very busy peninsula filled with stores, stalls, restaurants, bars, internet shops, and, of course, a 7-11. Had Rin Nok is where the world famous "Full Moon Parties" take place but I won't be here for the full moon so I'll be just fine.

Checked out, paid my bill, and waited for the "water taxi" to pick me up. The ride down the eastern side of the island was terible. The seas were ridiculously rough and there were numerous times I thought we were going to capsize. Two girls got sick, one over the side of the boat, and the other just sitting with her head in her palms throwing up at her feet. Needless to say, a great time was had by all.

Got down to Had Rin at 10:30A, and got a great room at Palita Lodge on Had Rin Nok, Julie Jones' recommendation. I have an amazing bungalow right on the beach - it's clearly the best location of all the bungalows I've had so far. I think I scored one of the best at Palita, if not the whole beach. I sacraficed air con and it was a great call as there is a constant fierce wind that blows across the beach all day and night. I'm paying slightly (or a lot) more than I normally like to but it's under $20 at a lovely price of 700 baht. 400 baht has been the price I like to stay around but as they say, location, location, location!

The surf here is pretty great and everyone was in the ocean frolicking about in what are certainly the biggest waves I've seen in Thailand to date. I swam for a bit and then walked around the town a bit. I like Had Rin - it's not as crazy as everyone made it out to be. It's nice to have a real town for a change over the quiet beaches with nothing but some local life around.

I hung on the beach and had a few beers with a bunch of English guys and girls and just enjoyed a new beach and a new scene. We all walked over to Sunset Beach (Had Rin Nai) to see a lame sunset and then headed back to our beach for a few beers. It was an early night, we said goodbye as they are leaving in the AM for Bangkok and back home to London. This wasn't a sad goodbye as I don't even remember their names 24 hours later.

Monday, April 04, 2005

PHOTOS # 5 - MORE ISLAND / BEACH LIVING

http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=99931112597520833/l=45357304/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Day 50 - Sunday, April 3 - Ko Pha Ngan

Woke and hung on the beach for a little bit and read another page of my book. At this rate, I should be finished in time for my trip to Africa next July.

Everyone woke up, packed their bags, and had breakfast at Pingjun while I enjoyed a morning swim.

I took the truck ride with Marlow, Les, and Logan to Thong Sala, we walked around a bit and had some fried chicken from a street vendor. There's nothing better these days than a great piece of street fried chicken. We parted ways again, this time knowing I wouldn't see Les and Marlow until I visited them in Canada, and Logan and I joked about meeting in Ko Tao after he saw them off in Bangkok.

I took the truck back to Pingjun and hung out on the beach reading my Lonely Planet in case I do end up on Ko Tao come Tuesday or Wednesday. This Ko Tao talk all came up again after seeing a postcard from Ko Tao with the most beautiful white sand beaches and pristine blue water. It might be worth a simple and inexpensive boat ride to check it out. I thought I had written Ko Tao off but now, as usual, plans are changing and I may rethink it.

Back at Pingjun, I swam, and relaxed and did pretty much a lot of nothing. Had a late lunch at 4PM, and just chilled out the rest of the early evening before checking out a few bars (Game Bar and Dolphin) before heading to bed. Was sound asleep by 10:30.

Sunday, April 03, 2005

Day 49 - Saturday, April 2 - Ko Pha Ngan

head·land ( P ) Pronunciation Key (hdlnd, -lnd)n.
A point of land, usually high and with a sheer drop, extending out into a body of water; a promontory.

After a great sleep in my fan only room, I woke up to see the sun rise over the mountains that line the bay. It was quite beautiful and I took a great walk on the beach, read a little and waited for the rest of the world to wake up.

We all had breakfast at about 9:30A and did pretty much nothing aside from relax, swim, hang out and veg until it was time for lunch at 1:00PM. We ate at the bungalow which I know knew was called PINGJUN RESORT, and let me use the term "resort" very loosely as the description in Lonely Planet is "a popular oldie, with cute wooden shacks in a grassy area".

After lunch, we decided to trek over to the other beach, Ao Thong Nai Pon Noi, so they could at least say they saw more than one beach before they left the island. There is a little path over the mountain that you can hike from one beach to the other. We swam, had a drink, and headed back to our beach. Marlow and Les took the way we came and Logan and I went the way of the water climbing over the headlands. This meant climbing on and over huge rocks and boulders sometimes having to jump top the nearest point that was certainly not an easy task. It was much harder than we anticipated but we finally made it, jumped in the water, swam, and came out to spend some time on the hammocks.

I showered to de-salt myself and spent some time at the internet cafe before it was time for dinner.

We went to some restaurant, obviously on the beach, and I had a great glass noodle salad with pork. After dinner we went next door to Dolphin, a awesomely cool bar in a jungle setting with various different raised platforms with cushions, pillows, etc for lounging and great music piped through the whole place. Les and Marlow left after about an hour and Logan and I sat and drank and talked about our next traveling experience - AFRICA - JULY 2006!

We got back to PINGJUN at about 1:00AM, sat on the hammocks, talking, listening to some music until 2:30AM at which time I had to call it a night.

Day 48 - Friday, April 1 - Ko Pha Ngan

Although no roosters to wake me up, I did a great job at waking up in time to see the sun rise. I walked around a bit, found a bungalow operation I would rather stay in if I were to stay at Mae Had Bay, and tried to figure out the lay of the land. The actual beach (the sand part) here at Royal Orchid sucks but just a 2 minute walk away, there's a good beach. Ko Ma, Horse Island, sits right in front of the little cove that Royal Orchid it situated on and is reachable via sandbar in about 2 - 3 minutes. Horse Island is blocking my view of the vast Gulf. As you read this blog, put your fist about 5" in front of your face and that's the same obstruction that Horse Island gives to the open water I am dying to look out and see.

After careful consideration, I realized that Royal Orchid and Mae Hat Bay weren't long for me. I checked out, paid my 200 baht and rented a bike, leaving my passport and pack as collateral. I drove to Had Yao, a beach on the northeast side of the island about 5km away from this shithole they call Mae Had Bay. I looked at some other hotels / bungalows and contemplated spending 1000 - 1500 baht a night on a nice air con room on the beach. I looked at Tantawan Bungalows where my friend Dylan stayed in December and it's real nice and situated on a hillside overlooking the blue water. However, I'm not in the market to climb the stairs of Kilamanjaro every time I want to get to the place and then have to cimb Mt. Fuji to get to my room.

I left Hat Yao and tried to find Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi and Ao Thong Nai Yai, 2 beaches on the northeast side of the island that were also recommended to me. This island is pretty big and after getting lost a few times, I realized I had to drive all the way south to Thong Sala, the main town where the pier is, and then head north on a different road as there was no way to get from the northwest side of the island to the northeast side without going all the way south first. Oh well, it was a nice ride and I was enjoying learning the island and seeing the sites.

The roads on the island are all pretty good and paved, WINDY AND NARROW AT TIMES, but there is a stretch of about 7 KM on the way to Ao Thong Nai Pon that isn't paved and along with windy and hilly, somewhat treacherous. I managed to get there in one piece and found what I thought was one of the prettiest beaches I found to date. I saw a few bunglaows I liked on Noi but wanted to check out Yai before making a decision. Drove just 1KM further and came across the little town of Ao Thong Nai Pon Yai and turned onto a little dirt road to get to the beach. I parked the bike and before I even got off the bike, I saw MARLOW walking up from the beach. What a weird coincidence! How the hell did I happen to end up pulling into the exact bungalow operation that they were staying at not even knowing they were on this beach? The world keeps getting smaller. Within minutes, out came Logan and Les and we were reunited - one big happy family again. We chatted for a little bit on the beautiful beach, and I definitely knew this was the beach to stay at. I then had to figure out how to get the bike back to Royal Orchid, get my bag, and get back to this place being it was already 4:00PM. There are no real taxi's on this island, rather a few scheduled runs to Thong Sala each day from the bungalow. I found a guy in a truck at the bungalow who was heading to the pier in Thong Sala and said he would then come get me at Royal Orchid and bring me back. I got on the bike, drove all the way back to Royal Orchid, returned the bike, said goodbye to that god forsaken place and the truck came to get me to bring me back for the low low price of 600 baht. At this point, the price didn't matter as I was getting out of a place I didn't like, heading to a beautiful beach, and had the Esau's to hang out with for another day before they headed to Bangkok where Marlow and Les were catching their plane back to Canada on Tuesday and Logan continued his travels.

Soooooooooo, back on the eastern north/south road to Thong Sala where I could cross over to the west side of the island and head north to Mae Had Bay to get my stuff. Like clockwork, the guy showed up just a few minutes after I did and took me back to Ao Thong Nai Pon Yai. Logan and I got a room with 2 beds so Les and Marlow could spend a night alone without child in tow. We caught up, talked about the whole week we were apart, and realized the weird coincidence that I found them.

We had a drink on the porch, I hung my hammock, and think I have found a place I can stay put for a few days. It was a whole day of looking for a place but it was well worth it. This beach is absolutely beautiful.

I showered to rid myself of the the sweat, dirt, and grime that had built up on my body and clothing from the ride and we headed down the beach to dinner. After dinner we hung out on the porch for a bit, and they told me that if I didn't mind, they would not go to Bangkok tomorrow and spend another day with me here. I certainly didn't mind and was glad to be back with my adopted family.

Everyone went to bed and I fell asleep on my hammock for a few hours before I transferred myself into my bed and called it a night.

Friday, April 01, 2005

Day 47 - Thursday, March 31 - Rei Ley to Ko Pha Ngan

I woke up, as you mow know, and decided to leave Rei Ley as I was anxious to get to Ko Pha Ngan and I didn't really need to stay any longer. It truly is a great place but for some reason, was ready to go. Maybe it was the 700 price tag per night. Maybe it was me dealing with the reality that come tomorrow, April arrives, and only 17 days remain on my journey. Whatever the reason, I packed and found a long tail boat that was about to leave with just 2 persons on board. I made it 3 and the driver was happy to see me. On the boat, I met and chatted with Jeremy and Archie from San Francisco.

When I landed back at Krabi Town at 10:35AM, I discovered there was a bus leaving for Surat Thani at 11:00AM. GREAT TIMING as this is the jumping off point to the islands in the Gulf. I ran to one of the shops I was at yesterday, bought the few trinkets I didn't want to lug to Rei Ley, and boarded the bus for Surat Thani. This drive, across the peninsula, would mark the last time I would see the Andaman Sea / Indian Ocean. A feeling of sadness came over me being that I had such success here in finding Paradise and Eden.

We got to Surat Thani and had an hour to kill before the next bus would take us to the Ferry at Donsak, about 45 minutes away where the boats to Ko Pha Ngan were docked. For some reason, I thought the boat left from Sura Thani but that may be the morning ferry and I had missed that one. I was starting to feel like a real backpacker who spend most of their time on busses, trains, ferries, etc and never really stopping to see the place they actually just came from.

So with this hour, what do you think I stumbled across? You guessed it, a UPS office. I am starting to hemmorage money but the goal is to be as light as possible now that I may be moving faster than the first part of the trip.

I packed a small box, this time with the souvenirs I had just purchaed in Krabi, my sneakers which haven't seen my feet since the trek in Chiang Mai, and 26 rolls of film that was starting to weigh me down. Did you read that last sentence? TWENTY SIX rolls of film, and that is in addition to the 6 rolls that are in storage in Bangkok and I still have almost 3 weeks left. I am starting the "please help Marc develop his film fund" for anyone who wants to donate.

Boarded the bus to Donsak, this time a big coach bus and finally got to the pier at 3:55PM, only to find out that the 4:00PM ferry was rescheduled to 5:00PM. I chatted it up with a few different travelers trying to decide who my next Katie and Dave, or Logan and his parents would be. Found a few possible candidates but didn't make a move yet to invite myself into their group.

On the ferry, I quickly spotted the FOOT MASSAGE area and plopped down in one. WHAT A GREAT IDEA! What a great way to pass some of the time on a boat ride across the Gulf of Thailand. The massage was pretty good and when finished, I went outside to see the scenery as it was passing by.

On the boat, I went back and forth conversing with 2 German guys and a group of 3 English (a guy and 2 girls), all of which I had to convince that ALL Americans aren't Bush loving assholes. Sometimes, that's a hard task and to be quite honest, I want the days back where I could say I was proud to be an American and have people envy that I was from the greatest nation on earth......gone are those days.

The boat stopped briefly at Ko Samui and then we were off to Ko Pha Ngan. The sunset was pretty great at sea, the sky pitch black with the stars as bright as can be and 45 minutes later, we pulled into Ko Pha Ngan. I got in a truck (songthaew) and headed to Royal Orchid, the bungalow operation that my friend Alex and Cass recommended. When he read about Miami being my paradise, he told me that they had found their paradise at Royal Orchid. The room is 200 baht, no air con and I'm going to give it a try for a day or 2. I haven't seen this place in daylight yet so I'll check it out tomorrow and see if I like the beach, the people, etc.

I went to Sunshine Restaurant, just up the road from Royal Orchid, and had a vegetable pizza, my first pizza in Thailand. It was pretty damn good and better than some I've had in LA.

This brings me current. I am on my way back to Royal Orchid and calling it a night, HOWEVER, just before I started this blog entry, I checked my e-mail and got one from Logan - they are in Ko Pha Ngan also. They have no idea I'm here until he checks his e-mail being that I replied and told him the coincidence. Maybe I'll be moving away from Royal Orchid sooner than I had planned......we'll have to see what tomorrow brings.

Day 46 - Wednesday, March 30 - Krabi to Reiley Beach

Checked out of the hotel and walked around town a bit before heading to the pier to find a boat to Reilay Beach. There are many many spellings for Rei Lay Beach so I'm going to use them all. There's no scheduled boat service to Rei Ley so one needs to find a long tail boat and hope the driver can fill the boat quickly. They like to leave once they have 8-10 people passengers on board. I got to the pier and I was #3. We waited for #4-8 but we couldn't find any others. Mr. Long Tail Boat Driver finally agreed to take us 3 for the normal 70 baht per person fare after 2 ladies bailed when he tried to raise the price and took the bus instead. The ladies were dumb as the bus goes to Ao Nang first and then you have to hire a long tail boat from there, and the driver was dumb for losing out on another 140 baht. I have no idea why people would opt for the bus option, but, as we know, some people are just born stupid.

The boat ride was 40 minutes to Rei Lay Beach East. I've been told so many contradictions with regard to Rei Ley Beach so I walked around and made my own choice. Matt from Oklahoma said West was better and Nadine and Tuci said East.

They are both corect.

The beach on West is far superior as it HAS a beach. There is no beach on East, just mangroves that turn into a muddy flatbed at low tide but the walk to West is all of 5 minutes.......maybe 10 if you stop to take some photos.

The accommodations at West were much more expensive and I didn't want to jump off my "budget bandwagon". I found the "Diamond Cave Bungalows and Resort" on Rei Ley Beach East and got a room for 700 baht - the most expensive place to date on my Thailand adventure. The scenery is beautiful, slightly up a hill with huge limestone cliffs in the backround, a beautiful crystal clear blue pool, and a good room with air con so I was happy. Well, I've been happy for the past 46 days so that was nothing new.

I got into my bathing suit, took the pool for a test ride and sat out for about 45 minutes. Put on some clothes and walked around a bit. The 3rd beach in this little area is called Ton Sai and reachable in one of 3 ways - by long tail boat (3 minutes around a point that juts out in the ocean), you can walk around the point in low tide only, or you can climb a mountain that was certainly steeper than anything I climbed on my trek. So you can see, I opted for the climb not knowing. It was a great walk though, occassionally passing numerous rock climbers (this is a playground for rockclimbers from across the world) climbing the outrageous limestone cliffs. It certainly looked pretty awesome. I found Ton Sai Beach and decided that this would probably be the best beach to stay on but I'm not moving. I figure I'm only going to be here for a few days and my place is fine. These bungalows on Ton Sai are a back to the basic huts with fan only and much less "resorty". It seems to be more of a backpacker crowd too, which, according to Dave (of Dave and Katie fame), I AM NOT. He says even though I travel with a backpack, I am too old to be a backpacker. I had lunch (fried rice with Indian curry sauce and chicken), a lemon shake (shakes here are dairy free- usually just the raw fruit in a blender with ice) and enjoyed the scenery. It's really quite striking.

I decided to take a long tail boat back as I was not making that climb over Everest again. I got back to Rei Ley West, walked around a bit, and walked back to East to take care of some business, get my sarong (doubles for a towel) and headed back to West for a swim and sunset. On the way, a local told me to go to Hat Tham Phra, the 4th and final beach reachable on foot on the Laem Phra Nang peninsula. He said it was a quieter beach and a better sunset. Wow, just a reminder, when in Thailand, listen to the locals. I walked to the southern end of Rei Ley East and over to Hat Tham Phra, most of the way walking along side a huge cliff and limestone formations that housed Tham Phra Cave. On the way, I passed Ravadee, a 26 acre 5-star resort that looks pretty spectacular. Lonely Planet says rooms (villas)there can climb as high as 150,000 baht per night.

The sunset was AWESOME and I have one of the best pictures taken to date to prove it. After the sun went down, I walked back over to Diamond Cave and jumped in the pool. Needless to say, I was a sweaty pig and it felt great. I wasn't hungry for dinner so I just got a few skewers from a lady on the beach and called it dinner. Back at my room, I showered, hung out, and went to "The Rock Bar" for a Chang. The bar is stuffed under some more huge-ass limestone cliffs and has a pretty great atmosphere. One Chang later and I was ready for bed.

Thursday, March 31, 2005

Day 45 - Tuesday, March 29 - Travel to Krabi

Just as I suspected, 6:10A came pretty quickly and I packed my final things and went to catch my truck ride to the ferry. The front desk area was empty. There wasn't anyone to be found but I knew they would wake up soon, especially because they knew they had someone checking out this morning and had to settle their bill.

Then it all made sense. Two trucks pulled up and all the Miami help (they are all family in one relation or another) filed out of the car. They had all left Miami way before we had and went to higher ground themselves and were just getting back.

I settled my bill, said goodbye to Q and Penn (yes, we are all on a first name basis now) and said my final goodbyes to the kitchen staff and all the help who were scurrying about prepping the kitchen and common areas for another beautiful day in this tiny little place, that as you know, I call paradise.

I got in the truck, drove the famous Lanta roads one last time, arrived at the Ferry, and quickly boarded and found prime real estate so I could lay down on the deck and sleep some of the way. Just two hours later I arrived at the Krabi Pier and after talking to a couple last night at Sunshine, decided to get a hotel room in Krabi Town for the night and go to Rei Ley Beach in the morning. I found a nice clean room at Ban Chaofa with Air Con and a hot shower, threw my bags down, and looked around to see what Krabi Town had to offer.

I was quickly back in city mode, fighting off the tuk-tuks and the numerous people calling from their shops, "come in, look is free". At one street corner along the river, I was approached by a man asking me if I wanted to take a boat ride. Sure, why not.

We crossed the street and I got in his long tail boat and rode through miles of mangroves seeing huge iguanas, some monkeys, and some beautiful scenery. We stopped at a small cave, I climbed up a boat load of stairs, looked around and got back in the boat. I got back to the starting point, and paid him his 300 baht, and ventured on.

I found a great spot for lunch. I pointed at the dish in the glass case as there wasn't a person in sight who could tell me what the dish was, and I inhaled the spiciest curry pork that I've had to date. It was a real local meal, and with a bottle of water, cost 25 baht. Gotta love the city life and the city food. I'm actually looking forward to getting back to Bangkok at the end of my trip so I can have some more of that great street food.

Walked around some more, bought some souvenirs because as you know, I've just shipped home a box of things I didn't want to carry anymore and I have room for new crap in my pack.

Krabi Town is actually a pretty interesting city. I had a good time just walking around and taking in all the sites. Of course, as much as the city entetrtained me, I also entertained them. They love stopping and talking to the new farang in town. It's almost as if I'm a circus freak they let out for the day.

I got back to my hotel, showered, and turned on the TV. I've only had TV in one other place I think and it was weird to turn it on and see "Ally McBeal." Then "The Simpsons" came on and I took a little snooze.

I woke up at 6:30P, threw on some new clothes as the ones I walked around in were drenched in sweat (oh, how I remember the days of walking around Bangkok and Chaing Mai dripping wet all day), and headed out to the "night market" for dinner. The couple I met last night as we were awaiting the Tsunami told me I must have dinner at the night market. This market was all local food, no souvenirs and people wanting to sell me bamboo placemats, watches, etc, and it all looked pretty awesome.

Once again, I pointed as there was no english spoken here and I ate more spicy curry. I think the reason Thai people are so skinny is that the chillies they eat literally burn away any fat cells that accumulate in their body. I have no idea what this stuff is doing to my insides, but it has to be cleaning it out in some way or another. I stopped at a few different stalls, sampled a few dishes, and headed back to the hotel but not before stopping at a cool bar, "The Rasta Hideout" that I scounted on my walk in the afternoon. It was close to my hotel and although not as cool as "The Reggae House" on Lanta, it was a great place to have a Chang before bed.

I wanted to get a good night sleep being that I only got about 3 hours last night awaiting for the Tsunami to arrive in Lanta.

Of to Reilay in the morning.

Tuesday, March 29, 2005

Day 44 - Monday, March 28 - Ko Lanta

TODAY I SURVIVED A TSUNAMI WARNING!

With no motorbike (I very easily could have gotten it back but decided against it) and nothing planned for the day, I decided to spend the day at Miami enjoying my last day in Paradise.

As I've said numerous times, if I had all the time in the world, I could certainly get even more comfortable than I already am (Natalie comfortable) and stay here for another month but I successfully changed my return date to LA to April 17th and as much as I want to stay, I do want to experience other parts of Thailand.
I swam, tried out my new snorkel, relaxed on the porch, read some of my book, and worked up an appetite for a noodle soup with chicken from Miami's kitchen. Back on my porch, I was soon visited by Katie who informed me that Happy Hour was starting soon and it was going to be a special one for my going away celebration. WAS IT EVER! She had cheese and crackers, fresh watermelon and pineapple, and some little pieces of fried chicken that were purchased in our little town by this nice old lady who can fry a mean chicken. Natalie came to join us with the Row 4/5 cats of Miami and a good time was had by all. We were soon joined by Tome, our new neighbor who is traveling alone after her friend ran out of money and had to go back to London earlier than planned.
Katie, Dave, and I had a farewell dinner at Otto's and talked about meeting in Ko Pha Ngan in the next few weeks. It's time they started to motivate and I'm thinking KPN may be their next stop. Back at Miami, we went for a nightcap at Mong's Bar, hung out with some fellow travellers and I said my goodbyes to my Paradise one last time. As I said when I left Lanta the first time, I'll look back on Miami and the friends I made with great fondness and will certainly never forget one minute of it.
I got to my room, packed and tucked myself in at about 12:40A. It was only 20 minutes later that I heard a knock on my door. I thought I was dreaming so I didn't answer but then the knock came again. It was Katie with some interesting news. "TSUNAMI WARNING", she said. She came in and told me of an 8.2 earthquake in Sumatra that could have similar effects as the December 26th events that rocked this part of the world. I knew there was no way we were going to have a repeat of the last disaster but nonetheless, I got up, got dressed and walked outside where I was met by our row of bungalows being ordered around by Dave, who was in slight crisis mode and the evacuation began. Within 5 minutes, all of Miami was awake and loaded into trucks and we were brought to higher ground. We were at Sunshine Hill, a restaurant that I passed numerous times on my bike rides, and the highest point on Lanta. As we were driving, we realized the entire island of travellers and locals had all packed small bags of essentials and were fleeing as we were. It was surreal, to say the least, and I was exhausted and could only look at my watch every few minutes knowing I was to get up soon for my ferry to Krabi. If Dave wasn't so insistant, I would have stayed right in my bungalow and gone back to bed hoping when I woke up, my floor was dry and I was still among the living.
At 3AM, they made an announcement in Tinglish that the government said it was safe and "no wave coming".
I hopped in the first truck back to Miami, got into bed, and knew 6:10A, the time that was set on my alarm clock, was rapidly approaching.

Day 43 - Sunday, March 27 - Ko Lanta

Could it be that it was time for another lazy day in Lanta? Being that I made a decision to leave tomorrow, and there are no more trips to Sala Dan for me, I think it was the case.

That thought lasted a very short time as I ran into Katie and Dave and they asked me to join them on a ride to Sala Dan to the weekend market. How could I turn down another Thai weekend market. After all, it meant a ride on the gross Lanta roads, a market that would have all the same crap as all the others and a bunch of food stalls that would have rotting meat with flies all over it and an occassional fruit stand that would be selling loads of DORIAN.

Don't know what DORIAN is?

Durian, Durio zibethinus Murr., is one of the best known fruits in tropical Asia. Its natural distribution is peninsular Malaysia, southern Thailand, Indonesia and Borneo. The fruit is stalked, pendulous, and round to oblong with large thorns on the skin. The fruit is a capsule that is split into 3 to 5 segments. Each segment contains l to 5 seeds, each of which is embedded in a sweet, aromatic and rich creamy pulp (aril) with a creamy yellow to golden yellow color. It is also known for its strong and pungent odour, which can be offensive and nauseating to some people.

I haven't been able to get past the smell of it yet but before I leave Thailand I'll try it.

Soooooo, off to Saladan I went on the dirty dusty disgusting roads with trucks and cars kicking crap up in our faces and covering our clothes and entire bodies with centimeters thick of dirt and grime. Got to the market and it was exactly what I had expected. We ate some chicken skewers and some pastry type of snack and bought nothing as usual. We went into the heart of Sala Dan, had lunch at Bi Fern (chicken and vegetables in a "sweeten sour" sauce), and I bought a mask and snorkel and a pair of sandals. Now that my pack has so much room, I didn't hesitate to buy some stuff to fill it right back up with. Yes, Marc, you are a moron!

A few hours later, we did the drive all over again (all 23km) and were back at Miami. I showered, washed my clothes, and went into our little town to get a haircut and some film for the big boat ride to Krabi tomorrow. Dave and Katie are trying to talk me out of leaving but sometimes you have to say goodbye to the people you meet and try other spots. It really is a toss up but if I don't motivate and make the move, I wont see everything I want to.

Back at Miami, I returned my motorbike so I didn't get charged an extra day to keep it overnight, I joined the porch for a few gin and tonics and chatted away. Somehow, they got me drunk enough to realize there was no way I was leaving at 7AM to get on a boat to Krabi. So, I guess it's one more day in the sun on Lanta before going to Krabi on Tuesday morning. I will be that boat, I promise! At 9:45, we finally motivated to OTTO's for dinner. I hadn't been before as they discovered it while I was on Lipe. I had an OTTO BURGER. My real first foray with a Thai "HAM BURGER". My otto burger was a patty about 2 inches in diameter, an inch thick, on a bun with a fried egg, cheese, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and lettuce and with a little imagination, I could have sworn I was sitting at JG Mellon's enjoying the burger of my life. After dinner, we made our way back to Miami. It was bed time for me after a little walk on the beach.

Sunday, March 27, 2005

Day 42 - Saturday, March 26 - Ko Lanta

Nobody really cares what time I woke up so just assume I did.

First things first. I packed up all the "stuff" I don't want to lug around any longer, including that stoooopid elephant I bought on Phuket, clothes I'm not wearing, some souvenirs, etc. and found the Post Office on the other side of the island. I packed a nice 9kg box and sent it via EMS (whatever that is) home. I'm now traveling 20 pounds lighter and I feel re-born. I can't wait to put that pack on and not feel like I'm carrying the weight of the world on my shoulders. I'm now down to a roomy pack and my day pack rather than a stuffed pack, a day pack and a shopping bag of souvenirs and crap that didn't fit into either of the 2 forementioned packs.

Another beautiful morning on Lanta and I then took my usual ride into Sala Dan. The ride is still fun but as gross as ever as the dusty dirty roads are still such. The trucks whiz by and leave a cloud of dirt and kick tiny pebbles in your face and there are periods of time where the visibility is zero. One day, if I stay any longer, I'll find myself driving either onto incoming traffic or off the side of the road. I'm also tired of having to wash every article of clothing when I get back from Sala Dan.

Hence, therefore, ergo.......I realized my time on Lanta must come to an end. I'll break the news to the gang and move on. On Monday morning, I'll board a boat to Krabi and from there end up on Rei Ley Beach and then maybe Ko Poda. After that, maybe Ang Thon National Marine Park for a day and off to the Gulf to Ko Pha Ngan. Of course, these plans will change a few times before they come to fruition.

Back at Miami, I took a swim, sat and played in the sand as if I was 6 years old again, and threw the frisbee with Barry and Nathan for a bit. I took a little snooze and then sat on the porch for a little bit. I'm missing my hammock here at Miami as the porch's have no supports or cross beams to hang it from. I'll definitely make a note of that on my "comment card" along with fixing my toilet so I don't have to reach into the back tank to lift the flap each time I need to flush. Does anyone know where I even get a "how did we do" card at Miami? I'm not sure they really care "how they did".

The sun was starting to drop and when this happens, you know what follows. Katie and Dave's porch became sunset central and today there was an added bonus. Matalie came over with a spread of cheese, crackers, bread, and some slices of mystery meat. We enjoyed our snacks, drank Gin and Tonics and Singha (the new beer of choice for some) and watched as the sun quickly dropped out of sight as it began to light up the Northern Hemisphere.

After it was dark, Dave, Katie and I (is that proper) went to some local little restaurant in "town" (our town, not Sala Dan) for dinner. It was cheap, local, and good!

After dinner, we met Natalie, Barry, Nathan and Aisha at Otto's for a little game of pool before they watched the England / Ireland soccer match. They couldn't find the game on the satellite so they went to Blue Moon and I went home. My bed was screaming my name as another strenuous day in Paradise had taken its toll on me.

Note: Natalie and Nathan are brother and sister from London. Barry is Nathan's childhod friend. Nathan moved to Thailand 7 years ago and met Aisha, a beautiful Thai massage therapist who now works at the massage hut at Miami. Natalie came to visit Nathan 5 months ago and has been here ever since. Barry spends winters in Thailand as he has a landscaping business back in England during the summer.

There you have it, you now know all the gang.

Saturday, March 26, 2005

Day 41 - Friday, March 25 - Ko Lanta

Woke to a somewhat cloudy day and realized it was nice to see some puffs in the sky. The Esau's were waiting for their truck to take them to the pier so I hung out with them for a little bit. Once they left, I got on the bike for a ride into Sala Dan. I caught up on all the missing blogs which I'm assuming you've all read by now, uploaded some photos for all to see, and headed back to Miami as the sky turned black, the wind picked up, and everyone fled the town.

Of course, no rain came, it all blew over, and all was fine in Paradise.

Back at Miami, I found Dave and Katie on their porch. I think the tile on their porch is wearing out. We went to a little street vendor for some curry lunch and brought it back to the porch to eat. We sat around enjoying the ocean breeze and I went for a swim.

The rest of the day was pure nothingness. Just lounged about and thought a few times of the next stop.

Happy Hour was the usual but since I stopped drinking this morning, I couldn't partake. That was, of course, until Katie handed me a Gin and tonic. Maybe I'll stop tomorrow.

After Happy Hour broke up, we got ready for our big night at the movies. Paul, a local Thai British guy who "owns" "The Pub", a little hut on the main road that as far as I can tell doesn't serve food or drink and seems to never have any people in there, was having people over to watch "Million Dollar Baby". We (Paul, me, Katie, Dave, Natalie, Barry, Nathan, and Aisha) sat around on cushions, pillows, and low tables watching the movie. WOW, now THAT's not a movie that one needs to watch here in Thailand unless he / she is tired of being in their "happy place" and is in the mood to get knocked down a few rungs. I guess I really had no idea what direction the movie took until it actually took it. The public did a great job at leaving out some details when talking about it.

After the movie, we all headed back to Miami and called it a night.

Friday, March 25, 2005

PHOTO ALBUM #4 - Lanta / Tarutao / Lipe

Here are some photos from the last few weeks. Once again, I'll bitch about how long the upload took, but people have been asking so here they are.

Until yesterday, when I took a count, I didn't realize how many photos I've taken with my other camera. I now have 30 rolls of 35mm to develop when I get home and I know there are some good ones on those rolls.

Enjoy looking as much as I've enjoyed taking!

http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=744251111751213507/l=44640566/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Day 40 - Thursday, March 24 - Ko Lanta

As usual, even after going to bed at 2:30A, I was up at 8:30A. I took a bike ride, popped into an internet place, and caught up on some blogging and e-mails. Back at Miami, I met up with the Esau's and we went on a massive bike ride around the part of the island that I didn't have a chance to show them yesterday. We saw elephants, monkeys, and even a few families of 4 riding motor bikes. Those seem to be the best sightings these days.

Drove to Saladin, shopped around a bit, and had lunch.

Back to Miami at 4PM and went for an afternoon swim. We were all covered head to toe in road dust and this time it was the dusty brown kind with a layer of red over it from the red clay roads on the northeast side of the island. If they were casting Willy Wonka for some Oompa Loompa's we all would have gotten cast.

After the swim, I did the unthinkable and actually took a proper shower with soap and all. Wow, did that feel good!

A beer or two later, some Thai snacks that I bought in Trang, and some great conversation made us hungry for some of Cook Kai's great food. Dinner was great, everyone made good choices and I got a big thank you for showing them a great time around Lanta. Back on the Esau porch, we shared one more beer and said our goodbyes. I had a great time traveling with them and hope to run into them again in the future. If not in the next few weeks in Krabi, Ko Pha Ngan, or Bangkok, maybe some day in Canada or the US. They are off to Phi Phi tomorrow and then to Phuket just to see if it's as bad as I told them it was. They are going to hate it.

As I was about to go walk into my bungalow and call it a night, Katie and Dave came to get me to go to the Full Moon Party a little bit north of Miami at Otto's Bar and Restaurant. I thought if you weren't on Ko Pha Ngan then the Full Moon wasn't that significant. Well, I caved and we drove down there to see what was going on. It was a pretty cool beach party with fire dancers, drinking, hanging out, mats all over the place with little bon fires on the sand, and a lot of dreadfully awful techo music blaring from some big ass speakers all over the beach. There were a few people selling some local crafts and a few food vendors selling some corn on the cob, fried chicken, and other delights. When I say it was a "pretty cool beach party", what I meant to say was, "It COULD have been pretty cool if the music was ANYTHING BUT TECHNO".

I lasted about an hour and a half and called it a night. That was way too much for me and I think I'm real glad I never rushed to Ko Pha Ngan to see the huge Full Moon Party that most people down south rush to each month. I crashed hard and was excited that tomorrow was another day on Lanta!

Day 39 - Wednesday, March 23 - Travel to Ko Lanta

Woke at 7AM and brought my bags across the street to Olawan's place. I paid a little extra baht in order to take a private car from Pak Bara to Trang so I could catch the earliest bus from Trang to Lanta. If I didn't pay extra and took the scheduled mini-bus, I wouldn't have been able to leave Pak Bara until 2:30P and the connection in Trang cuts it close sometimes. It was well worth the $5.25 extra.

Olawan took me in the songthaew to a little mini-mart in town where she gave me over to the driver who would take me all the way to Trang. I thanked her, said goodbye to Tam, and was on my way.

Got to Trang at about 10:30A and as I got out of the little black car, I heard someone calling my name. I thought I was hallucinating from the exhaust that was pumping into the car the entire way from Pak Bara to Trang. I looked across the street and there was Logan. They missed the connection in Trang yesterday and had to stay overnight. The bus they were taking to Lanta was about to leave and it was full so I had to wait til 12:30P for the next one. I waved them off, told them to get themselves to Miami and I would see them later.

Two hours later, I was waiting in line on the mini-bus to get on the ferry to Ko Lanta Noi. It felt great to be on my way home. The ferry came pretty quickly and as we crossed over Ko Lanta Noi and as we approached the ferry to Ko Lanta Yai, I was real excited to be back.

As I got out of the mini-bus at Miami, I got a very warm welcome from the staff. Even the lady who I had the argument with a few weeks earlier was happy to see me. I got my bungalow, put my bags down, and ran into the Easau's whos bungalow was right next to mine. Saw Dave and Katie. Saw Natalie. Saw Barry and Nathan and Aisha. Nothing seemed to change. I was home. Dia and Mong were excited to see me as they thought it was going to be a whole year before I came back.

The Esau's and I rented bikes and I took them on a tour of the island. Les rode on the back of Marlow and Logan and I had our own. They had a blast and coudn't thank me enough for bringing them to Lanta. They definitely liked Lipe better and I'm beginning to think the same.

Back at Miami, I chatted with Dave and then joined the Esau's for dinner at Miami. Watched the fire show at 10P, Les and Marlow went to bed, and Logan and I went on a bike ride south. There's nothing better than riding a motorbike, in the dark, 60 or 70 km/h, on the roads of Ko Lanta with the night wind in your face. Heading back to Miami, we decided to continue south and we rode all the way to Sala Din. The town was locked up tight and on the way back to Miami, we stopped to hear a local Thai band at this street side bar. He asked for requests, we said Bob Marley. He played the only song her knows, "Redemption Song" and he did a fine job. After that, he sung "Stairway to Heaven" and after those 2 songs and a Chang each, we moved on. We then found the Reggae House. This is quite possibly the coolest bar I've ever seen. It's basically a giant treehouse with multi-levels and reggae paraphernalia all over the place. It's all made from natural trees and logs and it's pretty great.
We talked with the bartender all about the place, his love for reggae, and how cool his bar was.

It was late, I was exhausted and it was time to get back on the bikes and get to Miami so I could get some sleep. Once again, a great day, even though some of it was spent traveling.